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This chart assumes hand knitting
Machine knitters, here
is an explanation of coned (or industrial) yarns.
Yarn Type |
Gauge* |
WPI |
Yards/Pound |
Needle size |
Ultrafine, Lace weight |
8+ |
18+ |
2600+ |
00-2 1.75-3mm |
Fine, Fingering or Baby weight |
6-8 |
16 |
1900-2400 |
2-4 3-3.5mm |
Light or Sport weight |
5.5-6 |
14 |
1200-1800 |
4-6 3.5 -4mm |
Medium aka DK weight |
5.5 |
13 |
1100-1400 |
5-7 3.75-4.5mm |
Heavy or Worsted |
4-5 |
12 |
900-1200 |
5-7 3.75-4.5,, |
Bulky |
3-4 |
10-12 |
600-800 |
10-11 5.75-8mm |
Very Bulky |
2-3 |
8-12 |
<400 |
13-15 9-10mm |
Anything finer than Ultrafine is considered cobweb, especially if it is single ply.
Cobweb is what beautiful Shetland shawls are made of, among other things.
My millspun is Ultrafine. The IAGARB club yarn is thick sport weight.
Table in PDF form, click http://www.germanangora.net/yarntable.pdf
(From my blog)
As I speak with more and more knitters, spinners, weavers, and other yarn users, the question of yarn classification (size, girth, gauge, diameter, etc.) is seldom discussed. However, it makes a huge difference in your garment's design. Since we who spin often have yarns that don't easily conform to the industry's labels, I thought it might be helpful to post the following. To help identify what is what and what is not.
Almost all my handspinning would fall into the "fine" category. It is a size that works well with almost all my knitting machines, but still easily hand knit. I'd like all my millspun yarn to be in the "Xtra fine" category, but I've had some miss the mark. When you are designing something, often the wraps per inch are a more useful term than yards per pound. In angora it is especially so, since the lighter, fluffier fibers will give you more length for the same diameter.
Happy knitting, and Happy holidays!
Machine knitters, here is an explanation of coned (or industrial) yarns.
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